“Into the Wild” by Ken Roberts
If you’ve seen the 2007 film “Into the Wild”, inspired by Christopher McCandless’ venture into the Alaskan wilderness, or read the book by Jon Krakauer chronicling his travels, you’ll know the journey ends in an old abandoned bus. And if you hanker after a chance to share a similar, quirky experience, then make a stop with Jay and Debbie near the small Alaskan town of Tok.
I’d come across it almost by accident, a chance conversation with a fellow traveller a few hundred miles back in Anchorage. An old bus she said. Thrust a hastily scribbled note with a phone number on it. Nothing more. Intrigued. Unsure as to whether it was truly as authentic as had been portrayed. I’d seen the film and didn’t want to be disappointed.
A short break thirty or so miles back along the Tok Cut-Off, the largely empty highway through the wilderness linking the small Alaskan towns of Glennallen and Tok, had led to a pairing up with passing American long-haul cyclist, Mike from Minnesota. I’d recounted the story and agreed we’d investigate together. There’d surely be room for two.
Tucked away amongst the trees, we fell in love with the bus at first sight. It was everything we’d imagined – or at least hoped – it would be. Jay soon appeared, quickly showing us around, including the very welcome hot showers in their nearby store. There was even a laundry.
A popular stop for cyclists, eager for a little respite from the rain, much of the interior is adorned with messages from passing riders. From afar afield as France. Some on world tours, others heading south for Argentina. All appreciative of the hospitality shown by Jay and Debbie.
If it differs a bit from McCandless’ bus, then it’s a couple of practical modifications. A small gas stove and electric light. And a heavy bear proof door, for Grizzlies are often found around nearby salmon streams. But, rather than detract from its rough and ready charm, these just seem to emphasise the relative remoteness and the dangers that lie outside for the unwary.
Chatting late into the night, again the next day, listening attentively to Jay’s tales of hunting in the back country, of bears in the back yard, is as much a part of the experience as stopping in the bus itself. Said he’d learnt to master his fears, not to show weakness when confronted with a Grizzly. We believed him. And we’d laughed at being told recent visitors hadn’t left until long after lunch, only to find ourselves departing less than an hour sooner.
The bus can be found at Midway Service, Milepost 61, half way along the Tok Cut-Off in south eastern Alaska. Jay and Debbie can be contacted via (US) +1 907-822-5877. Stays are free but donations for up-keep, gas and electricity are always appreciated.
Ken is an independent around-the-world cyclist raising funds for The Outward Bound Trust, a UK charity that helps young people realise their full potential. Find him on Facebook and follow his pedalling antics at www.acrosscontinents.org
